This journal was initially designed to record my April to mid-June 2013 trip to the South of France with my two dogs. Posts beyond this period have been added. This journal will be mostly about the horses and people i meet.
...From
Palluds-de-Noves, i drove to Cuges-les-Pins to join the Transhumance.
Transhumance is a project organised
within Marseille-Provence 2013 project. Marseille has been voted
European capital of culture for 2013. The aim of this Transhumance is to drive
cattle, sheep, mares and foals across Provence to the city of Marseille. The journey i embarked
on the 21st of May was 230 kms long and is due to finish on the 9th
of June. This was the idea! By day 2, i realised it was not for me after all
and said my goodbyes. Here are a few pictures of these 2 days on the
Transhumance.
I wanted to ride my pony but due to injury, i rented a horse instead.
Tao from Ecurie Des Enganes at Fontvieille.
Tao is a lovely horse with the right amount of energy.
Off
we went from Cuges-les-Pins to Trets and to St Antonin-sur-Bayon.
On our way to the mountain St Victoire.
The St Victoire has been famously painted
by Cezanne no less than 1,000 times.
He painted this frame in 1887. It is exibited in the Courtauld Gallery in London.
Gilles on his 4 y.o. cross Apaloosa
We were accompanied by Butteri cattle breeder from the Maremma area, an extensive area of Italy bordering the Ligurian and Tyrrhenian Seas. They came mounted
on their famous Maremma horses. They also brought Maremma foals and Maremmana
cattle with them.
A Buttero cowboy with his Maremma gelding.
Maremma horses stands at around 1.70 cms and are all shades of bay.
With a traditional Buterro saddle.
Buterr0 cowboy with his horse
Buterri at work garding their cattle.
On the left of the picture, there is a Buterro on his mule Maremmana.
A Buterro highly perched on a traditional Buttero saddle.
Maremmana foals guarded on foot by a Buterro cowboy
2-3 years old foals in the Alpilles
Maremmani cow who gave birth on my last day.
Amazing sweeping horns.
Base camp in St Antonin Sur Bayon on the footstep of the Ste Victoire.
I left the Transhumance and headed back to the Camargue...
Mon sejour au sein de la Manade Des Orgonens du Manadier
Bernard Colombet touche a sa fin.
Pendant sept semaines, j’ai été plongee dans le travail
du betail comme il l’est pratique dans ce coin du monde. Je suis venu avec un
esprit ouvert dans l’espoir de voyager dans des endroits dont je ne savais pas
encore qu’ils pouvaient exister. Ca a marche et en consequence j’amene avec moi,
dans ma prochaine etape, des richesses inestimables et des experiences
inoubliables. Ceci dit, cela n’aurai pas été possible sans l’ouverture d’esprit
et l’acceuil extraordinaire que vous m’avez temoignes. C’est du fond du cœur que
je vous remercie et vous dit a tres bientôt.
[My
stay amongst the Gardians of the Manade Des Orgonens headed by manadier Bernard
Colombet is coming to an end. It has been seven weeks of total immersion into
the authentic way of life around cattle as practised in this part of the world.
I came with an open frame of mind ready to be hopefully taken places I did not
know existed. It worked and I am continuing my journey richer as a result. All
that said it would not have been possible without the open minded attitude and
the kindness of your heart you all witnessed towards me. From the bottom of my
heart, thank you.]
Merci a Bernard Colombet et ses fils Benoit &
Bastien, Marion Fortunet, Maxime, Marine, Laura, Elian & Rosaline, David,
Mathias & Enzo, Marc, Fabi, Allan & son adorable petit frere, Jeremy, Val
& Marie, Mickael, Pierre, Marjo & Stephane, Joan, Jacques & Valerie
jeunes maries, Christophe & Valerie, Jacques & Pascale leure equipe et
leure famille, Clement & Ludivine, Melanie & Florient, Vincent &
Corinne & son papa, Dago, les veterinaires au soin de mon poney, Alex,
Sandro, Renaud et son equipe, Alison tout droit des Bermudes, toute ma famille
retrouvee chez Jacky et Franck le week-end dernier, Simon mon mari (Pauvre
Simon comme dirait Bernard) & bien sure tous les chevaux qui ont partages
ces sept semaines.
Manadier Bernard Colombet & N.2
Benoit Colombet & Martins
Bastien Colombet & Le Gros
Marion Fortunet
Alison & Axle
Pierre
Pierre & Stephane
Dominique, Marcelle & Jacky
Simon & Camille
David & Horses from Manade Des Orgonens
Mickael & Aslan De Prevot
Mares in the marshland
Clement (foreground left), Jimmy (foreground right) & Gardians from Manade Mailhan
Olive trees in the Alpilles
Mare & foal from Manade Mailhan
Course Camarguaise
Spanish Bull
Camargue Bull
Patchack De Prevot at stud at Manade des Orgonens
Quito De Gageron at stud at Manade Mailhan
Gardians from Manade Mailhan
Tourists in a Provencal market
The same tourists buying a ticket for a course camarguaise.
Real
strength comes from those who in front of the mighty use a velvet glove. Something
i have noticed. The smaller the sentient being the less respect people tend to
have. Too often you see people pulling & dragging little ponies around
but not often do you see them doing the same with a
1 ton animal attached at the
end of the lead rope. Size should not make any difference. Consideration comes regardless of the sentient being’s size. When
dealing with the heavies, somehow the majority of horsemen i have came across
tend to dig somewhere else than coercive methods for answers. This is one of
the reasons i have always been drawn to the world of heavies. Not to say that
the wisdom of an old man is an attraction!
A team of European champions!
Last
week-end, in the small Provencal town of Chateaurenard, a heavy horses
demonstration of ploughing, logging and driving took place. Chateaurenard is
famous for the world longest in-line driven chart. In 2010, 205 heavy horses
were driven in-line. The little film below shows a smaller version of it which
took place two weeks ago during a training session. 14 Comtois are in-line in
this film. They started at a walk and progressed to the canter. It was phenomenal,
earth shattering literally. For best effect, crank up the volume.
The
9 breeds of heavy French horses were also represented.
Ardonnais stand between 160 and 162 cms
Auxois measure between 160 and 170 cms
Boulonnais
80% grey, 10% Chestnuts & 10% Black
Bretons stand between 155 and 163 cms
Breton
A pair of Comtois at work. The turn at the end of the plough
was very nicely manoeuvred with calm & precision. Bravo!
Cob Normand stands between 158 and 171 cms.
It is the lightest of the French heavies.
Often seen in mounted police force.
Representing the Percheron breed, i let you enjoy this beautiful dressage moment between Manolo and his 1 toner stallion, Tao. Tao was a present from the Harras Nationaux, the French national Stud.
Poitevin Mulassier stands between 160 and 175 cms.
It originates from the Poitou area of France.
Often crossed with Baudet du Poitou to produce heavy working mules.
Trait Du Nord stands betwwen 168 and 170 cms.
These
days, heavy horses are used in sport & leisure driving, logging (34.5
million cubic metres of wood are cleared in France per year of which 50,000
cubic metres or 0.15% of the total volume cleared by horses.), traction (A horse can provide a maximum force of a
value equal to its own weight for 15 seconds. One horse power (HP) equals 35kg
of force which is the average force developed by a heavy horse 7 hours a day, 6
days a week, 52 weeks a year.), ploughing (Modern time is preoccupied by the
respect of its environment: less pollution, respectful of the soil and more
economical over small areas, the horse is the most modern tool there is!), urban
draft horse (73% of the French (SOFRES survey - National stud farms - 2003)
would like to see horses return to their town to provide physical therapy for the
disabled,
to monitor
parks and rubbish,
to offer
training
to delinquents to learn
self-control and discipline, to offer tours of the town and to assist
the police force.Around 30 French towns and communities
already
use one or more horses.) and in vineyard work. For
the horse & wine lovers of this world, horses are more and more used in vineyard
work hooray! Horses first made a comeback to the vineyard as ‘main assistant’
(to bring buyers into the vineyards and perform demonstrations of ‘old-style’
wine harvesting), but the wine growers quickly realised there was a notable
improvement to the health of the vineyard. Horses are synonymous with quality.
In Burgundy, 11 service providers work with horses on different domains.
A discovery for me, Rose Grapefruit!
It is a rose wine with grapefruit sirop. In France we call it
Rose Pamplemouse...Delicious!
Vincent introduced me to his friend Dago who let me drive his 800kg Comtois. This was a very first for me. i drove the horse with feel in the reins and voice. An amazing first experience of driving a horse and to feel how responsive the horse was to the weight I put into my reins.
Dago, the 800kgs Comtois & the chart i drove.
Notice the 5 kids at the back. They were there when i drove...no pressure!
A multitude of different horse shoe on display on this table.
This next picture shows a heavy horse shoe used when a horse works on very soft ground. This is a front foot shoe. The North side of the picture shows the toe side of the shoe. The enclave at the South side of the picture would stick out. This way the horse would walk on a larger surface and therefore avoid sinking too deep into the ground.
A shoe made to give a larger platform for soft ground.
Another team with Comtois.
In-line carriage will have the strongiest animal immediately in front of the carriage.
Because in a turn, it would be up to this horse to pull the whole weight of the carriage for a few second.